Epping
Epping High Street
Epping is a small market town, situated on a slight elevation in a rural setting in the county of Essex. It is around 16 miles (25 km) north-east of central London, and is shielded from the suburban sprawl by the extensive Epping Forest.
The population of Epping is about 12,000; many residents commute on the London Underground to work in the capital. The town has a large number of sporting and cultural organisations offering a wide choice of leisure activities.
A market town steeped in tradition
Prehistory and history
The town has a long past – there was a Stone Age settlement on the site almost 9,000 years ago. Then in historical times, in the Domesday Book of 1086 we see a mention of ‘Epinga’, an Anglo-Saxon place name meaning ‘hilltop farm’.
There are also early mentions of nearby ‘Epping Street’, which eventually became the present-day High Street. This road played an important part in the development of Epping. For example, in 1253 King Henry III authorised the nearby monastery at Waltham Abbey to hold a weekly market here, together with an annual three-day festival. Both attracted many people and contributed to Epping’s economic development. Over time it became an important cattle market, attracting farmers from a wide area. Allegedly wives were also bought and sold there.
A mediaeval custom continues
In 1961 the cattle market was replaced by a thriving Monday market offering a large selection of foodstuffs, clothing and household items, and it still attracts many visitors from the town and beyond. With its almost 800-year history, the market has become something of a tourist attraction as well as a meeting place for local people.
For centuries Epping High Street was an important stopping-off place for horse-drawn coaches on their way between London and East Anglian towns such as Norwich and Cambridge – in 1800 there were 26 inns to meet the needs of travellers. Given its rich history the road naturally bears witness to these earlier centuries, and it is now designated as a Conservation Area. A number of timber-framed buildings dating from the 17th century are still standing, the oldest of which is the Black Lion public house. There are also some notable 18th-century houses.
The arrival of the railway in 1865 spelt the end of the coaching era. Epping Station was built a short distance away in order to avoid the incline to the town centre. Initially steam powered, the line was electrified in 1948 and became part of the London Underground network. During World War II Epping suffered air-raid damage and casualties, most notably when a home for evacuee expectant mothers was bombed in 1940. Sir Winston Churchill, Britain’s wartime prime minister, was MP for Epping and his speeches there are commemorated by a blue plaque in the High Street.
Into the present…
Today the High Street, with its many shops as well as the market, entices the visitor to browse and to buy. There is also a good choice of pubs, cafes and restaurants. The focal point of the town is the late-19th century, neo-Gothic St John’s Church, which stands on the site of a 14th century chapel. The imposing tower has a large clock projecting from it. From the top of the tower – once you have climbed up some narrow ladders – you are rewarded with a wonderful panorama.
Another feature of the town is the water tower, built in 1872. This was a result of a long struggle by a local doctor to improve the town’s water supply.
A third tower, at the other end of the High Street, is of much more recent construction – it dates from 1990 and forms part of the administrative centre of Epping Forest District Council.
The local Epping Town Council is based at Epping Hall, in St John’s Road. This multipurpose venue, opened in 2001, also hosts a wide variety of public and private functions – not least the celebrations in 2022 to mark the 40th anniversary of the twin town partnership.
With the demand for housing since World War II, the population of Epping has grown considerably – first through council housing on the outskirts, and more recently through apartment blocks in the central area.
The town’s excellent transport links with London and beyond, combined with its attractive rural location, make it a desirable place to live and to visit. And this in turn naturally makes Epping a fitting partner for its twin town of Eppingen in the German state of Baden-Württemberg.
You can find more information about Epping past and present at www.eppingtowncouncil.gov.uk
Visitor attractions near Epping
London
The UK’s capital city, being within easy reach of Epping, is by far the favourite sightseeing destination for visitors to that town. The Central Line of the London Underground will get you to central London within 40 minutes, and from there it’s a short hop to countless visitor attractions – Buckingham Palace, the Houses of Parliament, Theatreland, Trafalgar Square, the River Thames, the Tower and Tower Bridge and Docklands, to name but a few, together with world-famous museums, galleries, music venues, parks, markets and places of worship. Other sights in the suburbs and beyond are also within easy reach by Tube or Overground/National Rail services – for example, Greenwich, Kew Gardens and Windsor.
The London Tube and buses accept Oyster Card or contactless credit/debit card payments. www.tfl.gov.uk
Epping-Ongar Railway
Epping Station is now the terminus of the Underground Central Line. However, until 1994 the route continued a further three stops from Epping to the village of Ongar. A few years after its closure, a group of railway enthusiasts undertook to restore the final stretch between North Weald and Ongar as a tourist attraction, using historic steam and diesel locomotives. The line is open only for a limited number of days a year, and sometimes features special events. The Railway also runs an occasional ‘heritage bus’ shuttle service from Epping.
Further information, including timetables, fares and bookings: www.eorailway.co.uk
Epping Forest
The town of Epping is situated towards the north-eastern end of these 6,000 acre (2,400 hectare) woodlands, which extend for about 12 miles (19 km). As well as ancient forest land, there are meadows, heathland, wetlands and streams, together with over 100 lakes and ponds. Until 1878, Epping Forest was officially a royal hunting forest. Since then it has remained a protected area, now managed by the City of London Corporation. Parts of the Forest receive additional protection as Sites of Special Scientific Interest and Special Areas of Conservation.
Activities for visitors include horse riding, mountain biking and rambling. You can admire the flora and fauna, as well as some of the 1,500 species of fungi that the area is particularly well known for.
Many types of animal can be seen, including fallow deer with an unusually dark colour and miniature muntjacs that were introduced from Southeast Asia.
www.visiteppingforest.org/things-to-do/epping-forest-p1389551
www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/things-to-do/green-spaces/epping-forest
Queen Elizabeth’s Hunting Lodge
It’s pretty likely that both King Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth I hunted in Epping Forest. The Hunting Lodge, about 6 miles (10 km) south of Epping, was built by Henry VIII and renovated during Elizabeth’s reign. Today, the Lodge houses exhibitions of Tudor cooking and clothing, and the top floor offers a wonderful view over the Forest. An Epping Forest Visitor Centre is next door to the Lodge.
Royal Gunpowder Mills, Waltham Abbey
Explosives were manufactured here for nearly 300 years from the 1660s, and the site is now the only intact example of this sort of manufactory in the UK. Originally the mills produced mainly gunpowder, which was used in many conflicts including the Anglo-Dutch Wars, the Seven Years’ War and the Napoleonic Wars.
From around 1850, nitrogen-based explosives and propellants were manufactured here. These were later developed into the ‘smokeless powder’ that was used during both world wars. The works gained an international reputation for their high-quality products. After 1945 the focus was solely on defence research and development, until closure in 1991.
The Royal Gunpowder Mills are now a museum of industrial history, comprising 21 buildings of historical importance set in extensive parkland. The exhibits include film shows, models of weapons and rockets, and a photographic exhibition honouring the female workforce.
Further information, including opening times: www.royalgunpowdermills.com and www.visiteppingforest.org/things-to-do/the-royal-gunpowder-mills-p1383381
Copped Hall, near Epping
This Georgian stately home between Epping and Waltham Abbey narrowly escaped the fate that has befallen so many others, and has been saved from demolition.
Copped Hall has a long history dating back to the 13th century. It was later owned by Queen Mary Tudor and then by Elizabeth I, who granted it to her friend Sir Thomas Heneage. He renovated the property and in 1568 invited Elizabeth to stay there.
Following several changes of ownership, in the 1750s John Conyers had the house demolished and rebuilt in the fashionable Palladian style. However, subsequent owners neglected the property; in 1917 an electrical fault caused a disastrous fire that left little more than the shell of the building standing, and part of it was demolished. The Corporation of London purchased the property in 1992, transferring it in 1995 to the newly established Copped Hall Trust who are undertaking a long-term renovation project of the house and the walled garden.
Since work is still in progress, the property is currently open to the public only for specific events. These are listed on the venue’s website, together with photographs, a more detailed history, and general information. www.coppedhalltrust.org.uk
Ongar and district
The pleasant little town of Ongar has a ruined castle, some historic buildings, and a monthly farmers’ and craft market.
www.visiteppingforest.org/information/product-catch-all/ongar-p1404761
Three attractions nearby are worth a mention: Greensted Church is reputed to be the oldest wooden church in the world, but only a small proportion of the original Anglo-Saxon wooden construction remains. The church is nonetheless well worth a visit, not least because it is a beautiful building in a peaceful location. www.greenstedchurch.org.uk
Ashlyns Farm has a farm shop and restaurant, a farm park with children’s play facilities, and other attractions. www.ashlynsfarmshop.co.uk (with links)
The Secret Nuclear Bunker. North of Ongar, at Kelvedon Hatch, is a former underground nuclear bunker, now privately owned but open to the public. So it’s no longer very secret! Designed to house 600 people, it was intended as an emergency seat of regional government. It now features a Cold War history museum. www.secretnuclearbunker.com
Waltham Abbey Church
Christian worship here has its roots in the early seventh century, and the site is steeped in history and legend. The last Saxon king, Harold II, is reputed to be buried here following his defeat at the Battle of Hastings in 1066. The present-day Church of Holy Cross & St Lawrence is a fine example of 12th-century Norman architecture. Nineteenth-century restoration includes a ceiling depicting the signs of the zodiac. The 16th-century composer Thomas Tallis was employed here for a while, and the church still maintains a strong musical tradition. In the adjacent parkland are the former abbey buildings, in ruins since their destruction in 1540 as part of King Henry VIII’s Dissolution of the Monasteries. www.walthamabbeychurch.co.uk
Epping Forest District Museum
Situated in Sun Street, Waltham Abbey, the Epping Forest District Museum tells the story of the people and events that shaped the local area. The collection includes paintings, jewellery, costumes and the Waltham Abbey Bible. There are also changing exhibitions, a gift shop and activities suitable for all ages. The museum is housed in a beautiful 16th-century Tudor building. www.eppingforestdc.gov.uk/leisure/epping-forest-district-museum
North Weald Airfield, Museum and Market
This operational airfield, 5 miles (8 km) north-east of Epping, also hosts a large Saturday outdoor market and numerous events throughout the year. In addition, it is home to a museum of RAF history, including demonstration flights of historic aircraft. www.eppingforestdc.gov.uk/northweald and www.northwealdmarket.co.uk
Epping town sign
St John’s Church, Epping
Victorian water tower on Epping High Street
Epping Hall in St John’s Road
‘Routemaster’ heritage bus on Epping High Street
Steam and diesel on the Epping-Ongar Railway
Epping Forest in spring
Queen Elizabeth’s Hunting Lodge
The walled garden at Copped Hall
Greensted Church
Waltham Abbey Church